Kudos to Eric Asimov and his respondents to his Watch What I Do, Not What I Say blog concerning interventionism in winemaking. My initial response included a reference to "field oxidation" which I promised to expand on here in more depth than I felt appropriate to hog on Eric's site.
Two points to begin. First, I don't subscribe to the health arguments. Since the human body produces a gram of sulfites per day -- ten times as much sulfites as you find in a bottle of wine -- how can there be an allergic reaction to sulfites? And second, there are many technical methods to make wine without sulfites -- pasteurization, as is done for Japanese sake, to name one. That's not my interest.
How’s your Italian? The latest phrase to learn: “Pinocchio Wine.” This refers to a new Italian political movement “to protect the industry against artificial ageing techniques,” by which they mean use of oak chips.
After serving a decade with the OIV Groupe d’Expertes Sur la Technologie du Vin, I can assure you that wine purity through effective regulation is not the Italian way. That would be the French. The Italian way is (surprise!)…LOOKIN’ GOOD!
I'm working on an article about the tools modern wine makers have at their disposal to make better wine. Vinovation seems like the company to talk to. I'd like to know if I could set up a time to interview you and/or other principals to learn about what Vinovation offers to its clients.
Thank you for your time, and I look forward to learning more.
The result of excessive hangtime is wine with pruney flavors, excessive alcohol and little longevity. Patrick Ducournau's rediscovery of micro-oxygenation provides us today a much more gentle and sophisticated method to refine the hard tannins which characterize properly ripe red grapes. This can be accomplished by a skilled hand without oxidizing the wine and in doing so one can actually extend wine longevity by promoting color and tannin stability.