Dan Berger’s article in Appellation America offers a brilliant insight: overripe wines are wimpier. And as a winemaker weary of apologizing for youthful leanness and austerity, these words are a breath of fresh air.
He’s right! Today’s overpriced prune bombs may offer cheap thrills to impact thrill-seekers who lack the stones to appreciate good structure, minerality and integrity serious wine offers. But they’re wimps.
Ye builders of appellations beware. The bell tolls for thee.
Washington State corporation Ste. Michelle has joined forces with rapacious Italian giant Antinori to assimilate Napa Valley collectible Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, following in the footsteps of another appellation pioneer, Carneros Creek Winery, swallowed up just a year ago year, while a third namesake winery, Dry Creek Vineyards, struggles against insolvency to maintain independence.
So many wine media pundits speak of their love of Old World wine styles over the standard California offerings, which tend to overblown styles which please up front but lack minerality and length in the finish; muscular and fruit forward but without balance, interest and depth, brawny and generous yet dull and shallow; long on impact but short-lived. And I agree.