Musings

Pinocchio: It Takes One to Know One

Submitted by Clark Smith on Thu, 08/03/2006 - 8:45pm

How’s your Italian? The latest phrase to learn: “Pinocchio Wine.” This refers to a new Italian political movement “to protect the industry against artificial ageing techniques,” by which they mean use of oak chips.

After serving a decade with the OIV Groupe d’Expertes Sur la Technologie du Vin, I can assure you that wine purity through effective regulation is not the Italian way. That would be the French. The Italian way is (surprise!)…LOOKIN’ GOOD!

In response to Eric Asimov on sweetness of California wines

Submitted by Clark Smith on Sat, 07/22/2006 - 3:28pm

Heated discussion ensued in response to Eric Asimov's indictment of California wines for what he termed "sweetness." (See http://www.nytimes.com/2006/07/19/dining/19pour.html?_r=2&oref=slogin&oref=slogin)

A large number of responses ensued, defending our honor.

Ageworthiness and alcohol level

Submitted by Clark Smith on Sat, 07/08/2006 - 12:00am

San Diego Reader on GrapeCraft vs hang time

Submitted by Clark Smith on Thu, 07/06/2006 - 4:56am

You need good eggs from the chicken, but don't ask her to scramble them for you... http://www.sdreader.com/published/2005-07-21/crush.html

The Communality Paradox

Submitted by Clark Smith on Tue, 07/04/2006 - 11:55pm

This weekend Napa Valley hosted the 2006 Symposium of the Institute of Masters of Wine. One of the most stimulating speakers was a chap under whom I studied Sensory Science at UC Davis, Dr. Michael O’Mahoney, a thoughtful and erudite chap who also brings his training as a Shakespearean actor to the lecture hall, and is never boring.

A Master of Wine visits the winery

Submitted by Clark Smith on Tue, 07/04/2006 - 11:45pm

Monday I was visited by an earnest and energetic MW who dragged her hapless but cheerful husband and son to my winery for a chat about the evil things I do and how on earth I can go on living with myself. Well, she was a lot kinder than that, but I did sense her concern.
She felt she needed to see the offending equipment up close. This proved a very good idea, for as her hubby remarked, it’s just a pump and a stack of filters and what’s the big deal? I said I didn’t know either, but maybe they’d like to taste some wine.

Practicing Postmodern Winemaking

Submitted by Clark Smith on Thu, 06/08/2006 - 3:40am

Dear Mr. Smith:

I'm working on an article about the tools modern wine makers have at their disposal to make better wine. Vinovation seems like the company to talk to. I'd like to know if I could set up a time to interview you and/or other principals to learn about what Vinovation offers to its clients.

Thank you for your time, and I look forward to learning more.

David

Dear David:

Reproduced: submittal on Micro-oxygenation to Jancis Robinson's Purple Prose:

Submitted by Clark Smith on Thu, 06/08/2006 - 3:38am

The result of excessive hangtime is wine with pruney flavors, excessive alcohol and little longevity. Patrick Ducournau's rediscovery of micro-oxygenation provides us today a much more gentle and sophisticated method to refine the hard tannins which characterize properly ripe red grapes. This can be accomplished by a skilled hand without oxidizing the wine and in doing so one can actually extend wine longevity by promoting color and tannin stability.

GrapeCraft point of view on “Mondovino”

Submitted by Clark Smith on Thu, 06/08/2006 - 3:26am

Enologix compared to Vinovation

Submitted by Clark Smith on Wed, 06/07/2006 - 6:00pm

I received this letter recently from Fran in Phoenix.

"In the context of tools that wine makers can use these days, Enologix has gotten a lot of press. I'd love to hear your take on what he's doing, and how that differs from Vinovation (which I ask just to enhance my own understanding). Is he a competitor? A different universe?"

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